Will my opcom be able to tell me what is draining my battery, I'm not really clued up with it, I have only used it to find fault codes when my EML came on, just hoping that someone has had similar problem, the battery will last 2 days 3 at a push but because the car doesn't actually get drove a lot, I am sick charging the battery every couple of days TIA
Hi if you only do short trips the battery does not charge properly via the alternator.Then it can get discharged especially winter months.
To avoid this try a long distance journey once a month to fully charge battery
Ok well bare in mind, you may get false results. What you need to do is charge the battery [emoji367] back to full capacity and have old unit in, as a dud battery will always be did if gone to far / been discharged to low.
If you are unable to do a parasitic draw test u can remove both battery terminals and leave the battery in the car for few days and check the resting voltage.obviously u have to get voltage reading before u disconnect the terminals to check any significant voltage drop.if there is a fairly big drop after just a few days means the battery is faulty !
other thing to think of is a bad diode in the alternator which can cause a parasitic drain of battery. So u need to check the alternator
with a multimeter
Yeah it was the actual battery it wouldn't hold charge in the car but to this day its still showing 12.44 but I put it in the car and it lasts 2 days🤣🤣
Yeah it was the actual battery it wouldn't hold charge in the car but to this day its still showing 12.44 but I put it in the car and it lasts 2 days[emoji1787][emoji1787]
Ok so assume you bought another battery and that one is working fine. There should be warranty on that battery ifs new you maybe able to get money back, just because it's new doesn't means it's good as they say [emoji23][emoji23]
So, I had a car in stock which was doing this, after research I found on you tube a video which solved my fault. It ended up being the battery terminal. In the video he had it on the positive, we found the negative terminal red hot to touch and it was charging at 13.2v. We cut the earth lead shorter and exposed fresh copper for the crimp. Fixed. Now the car charges at 14.1, connections cool and no battery drain. Better than that no new body control module or complicated work and a very happy customer.
Awhile back now did you ever get it sorted but @Koicarpkeeper should be able to tell you and provide any correct software I believe [emoji1417][emoji1417][emoji1417]
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