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So I have purchased a 56 plate (2007) 1.3CDTI. Its the z13dtj engine.

I brought it remapped, apparently by midland remaps, no proof, but deffo been remapped, told it was 110hp 175ftlb which is about what the motor does stage 1.

1 major problem with the car was.... It didn't start properly, surprised? No. These cars are renowned for not starting or bad starting, and that's because when they left the factory they had really underpowered starter motors, 1.1kw is the standard on these if they haven't been changed. Now the car didnt have the starting issue of a dodgy starter motor until I learned that obviously this one had the 1.1kw so I started by changing the following,

New crank sensor located at the front of the engine not the back behind the driveshaft, its just behind the intake right by the turbo.

New coolant temp sensor as this is one of the main culprits for the cars having starting issues.

I cleaned out the map sensor too just for s**** and giggles. Actually made a difference to how the car pulled.

Blanked egr off as this also if stuck open makes the engine choak up on starting making it really hard to start.

Glow plugs all okay so didn't touch them.

Checked battery, battery is fully charged and has the correct cranking amps.

Engine shook like no tomorrow, dog bone mount very common, also the top mount engine/gearbox mount was gone also common. Changed both now doesn't rock. Can get polybush inserts under the vxr ones same as the 1.3cdti funnily. I'd absolutely recommend just getting them inserts rather than forking out for a new engine mount as long as the rubbers aren't perished.

Also tried a high fuel pressure regulator, unfortunately recieved a faulty item but the car started so much better with all that I've done to it anyway so sent it back not going to bother changing that.

So we come down to the upgraded 1.8kw starter. I haven't fitted it yet but from what I know if your 1.3 from 2006 - 2009 is not starting cold/warm, its because of this 1.1kw starter motor, now you're probably thinking why didn't you start there first, well
1 it cranked over like it should (looking at other people's with the similar age)
2 it threw the spline gear out so the solenoid wasn't stuck.
3 it did the job after 5-6 cranks so thought nothing of it (if your engine cranks over with in 20 seconds of solid cranking you've got a good one 😂 this engine is used in fiat doblos, I say no more) now obviously knowing about the 1.8kw starter it all makes sense I've ordered one off autodoc for 67 quid which is a bargain as euro car parts sells them for 170 😱, and will update when I've fitted to see if the whole starting issue has been solved. Fortunately parts for the cars if you look in the right places are pennies compared to other cars so I didn't mind changing the above things to see if it was a cheaper fix than forking out for the starter motor.

If you get told its the ecu, don't worry people love jumping to this conclusion very fast cause of where the ecu is, just check that the plenum chamber is all clear of leaves and debris and see if your ecu is really corroded, not oxidised cause that's normal I mean really corroded towards the bottom, if it is take it out and check it first. This could mean it's had water ingress. But it isn't the end of the world if you know how to clean them 👍🏻

P. S I am a trained mechanic but I make a living of landrovers. Just doing this off what I've learned about diesels.
 

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So, I've fixed the starting issue, the old unit was the 1.1kw starter that just isn't up to the task of spinning the high pressure fuel pump on start up. Replaced with the 1.8kw uprated starter and replaced the engine/gearbox top mount and the car started straight away no hesitation started first time. ******* of a job but in the end highly worth it. No more starting issues at present.
 
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