[Krys]

I have a 2010 corsa sxi with a vxr engine fitted, this was already done before I bought it and I have a couple of little issues, im assuming BCM or wiring.
The main beam lights are always on when the headlights are on and the interior lights don't work. I think everything else is working perfectly.
The plan was to just use as a track car so these issues weren't really a problem but now I think I best get these issues sorted so that it is 100% roadworthy and go from there.

I dont know where to start but for starters, when plugged into vaux-com... the high beam is going from active to inactive when pressing the stalk so its not a control issue, im guessing wiring or BCM.

Any suggestions on where to start or if there's anyone or anywhere that you think might be able to help would be great.

Preferably North East area

 

[jakesween2]

To be honest I'd start at the headlight end and see if they have connected it up to the main beam for some strange reason. I think it's unlikely that the wiring wjlll have been messed with anywhere else as it would be harder.

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[Krys]

That's actually the first thing I checked mate as it had some aftermarket HID kit fitted and the light housing had all been cut. I sook them out and fitted some standard lights and all still the same, the wiring all looks original as I should.
I was wondering if the pinouts of the BCM may be different for each model or year...

 

[SxiDave]

I know it sounds as if I’m trying to tell granny how to suck eggs but is the headlight switch good? I’m guessing if it’s a track car she’s been altered a bit, I mean it isn’t beyond belief that the wiring going to the headlight on/ off / sidelight unit could have been messed around with, why would you need dip beam on a track car so someone’s snipped a wire? I’d be tempted to have a look there first after checking the fuses are all sound.

 

[Krys]

Well its not a track car yet, that was just my plan.
Yeah headlight switch is fine, low beam relay is powered when switched on but I think the high beam relay always has power as soon as ignition is on.

I'm 99% thats whats happening, I will double check

 

[jakesween2]

The only thing o could be really is that the wiring has been messed with somewhere in the loom.

It might be easier to run your own wire from the full beam through the firewall and Into the back rather than find where it's gone wrong.

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[SxiDave]

Try switching the relays over see if the problem still happens, if it does, new relay time!

 

[Krys]

Yeah already checked relay.
I've just had a check and the coil of the high beam is always energized, even with the ignition off.
As soon as the ignition is on, the high beams are on even with headlights off.

Next step i think would be to check the output of the BCM, I believe its pin 10 if someone could confirm..
I cant see any pin numbers so will have to pull it out to get a good look.

Unfortunately I don't know what has/hasn't been swapped such as wiring and modules but the wiring does neat, clips in tact etc making me think original.

Another thing, the car is 2010, I believe engine from a 2006 and I've just noticed that fuse boxes are different on pre and post 2007 models. I cant find diagrams online .

 

[Krys]

I've found pin 10 on the bottom left connector of the bcm behind the glove box and removed.
Now the high beam is not on so I guess I'm on the right track...
I'm thinking either that the bcm is faulty or the pins are different.... I may be way off here but "could the car have had day running lights before conversion? "

I guess should be able to go along each pin with a multimeter looking for 12v when the stalk is pressed..

 

[SxiDave]

It’s as good a shout as any!

 

[SxiDave]

With it being a 2010 vintage, don’t think drl’s were on that year, suppose easy way is has it a black center dash as that was a model year change with drl’s and before anyone says, I know there was a few excite versions on a facelift with silver center dash panes 😆. The headlight switch itself was changed to the astra j style on facelifts so unless she’s a bit of a parts bin special that’d be a way of finding if it’s a early or late model. Guess the 10 pin plug would be the easier thing to test then you know all is good to that point, main, dip, earth, left indicator, right indicator, sidelights, hazard, speed feed, charge light, immobilizer at a rough guess, certainally first 7 would show on a test, it’s almost a shame to say take it to an auto electrician as there won’t be the satisfaction of finding the fault yourself but if it needs fixing then that might be the way to go