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No definitely the fan wasn’t going very fast when it hit 109c. I can’t really say whether it opened before as I bought the car with head gasket fail as a do up car for the girlfriend.
Well based from my mates care you should have a fan kick in around 98c , so that could be.something else to address.

In regards to the thermostat,

1) I would do check all connectors are connected properly.

2) I would think about, taking out the stat again and see if it opens manually like I tested in some cooking oil (obvious rig it so the electrical connector does not get covered in oil). I would possibly test your old one of you still have it also. If they open, I would look at rebleeding the system.

3) Maybe buy a block combustion tester to rule out it's not failed again, I've just bought one and testing tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter #22
Well based from my mates care you should have a fan kick in around 98c , so that could be.something else to address.

In regards to the thermostat,

1) I would do check all connectors are connected properly.

2) I would think about, taking out the stat again and see if it opens manually like I tested in some cooking oil (obvious rig it so the electrical connector does not get covered in oil). I would possibly test your old one of you still have it also. If they open, I would look at rebleeding the system.

3) Maybe buy a block combustion tester to rule out it's not failed again, I've just bought one and testing tomorrow.

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Thanks for the advice mate
You think yours might of blown again? Why do you think that?
 

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Thanks for the advice mate
You think yours might of blown again? Why do you think that?
My head gasket has never blown, currently it is making a water sloshing sound behind the dash which is concerning me, some say it is an airlock whilst other research says signs of a head gasket. I'm not.loosing any.coolant and car does everythinng it should. I would say it's more from talking about our temperature numbers has got me paranoid, I have always been up and down with this topic for years, as told different things from different forum memebrs in the terms of is it right or not, so I'm just doing this test to finally be able to put my mind at rest as I am forever looking at my temperature guage. Sometimes ignorance can be bliss lol.

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Discussion Starter #24
My head gasket has never blown, currently it is making a water sloshing sound behind the dash which is concerning me, some say it is an airlock whilst other research says signs of a head gasket. I'm not.loosing any.coolant and car does everythinng it should. I would say it's more from talking about our temperature numbers has got me paranoid, I have always been up and down with this topic for years, as told different things from different forum memebrs in the terms of is it right or not, so I'm just doing this test to finally be able to put my mind at rest as I am forever looking at my temperature guage. Sometimes ignorance can be bliss lol.

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I’d agree with you a water sloshing doesn’t sound right, if all your pipes are the same temperature when you hit around 105c, the pipes are hard due to pressure and there’s water coming back to the bottle through the small pipe it shouldn’t be an airlock.
Don’t know about you but I’d say same identical car and same age should be the same temperatures.
I done the test on mine a few weeks ago all good.. let us know your test result 👍
 

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I’d agree with you a water sloshing doesn’t sound right, if all your pipes are the same temperature when you hit around 105c, the pipes are hard due to pressure and there’s water coming back to the bottle through the small pipe it shouldn’t be an airlock.
Don’t know about you but I’d say same identical car and same age should be the same temperatures.
I done the test on mine a few weeks ago all good.. let us know your test result
Yeah I'll just finally check it tomorrow and proceed, my only slight hope is cars with AC do have 2 fans speeds where as non AC can sometimes not (which my car is non AC) so the temps would be right as I don't have that initial first fan to keep it below 98c like the limited editions. I will keep you posted. What's currently going in with yours, are you still driving it or found any more solutions?

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Yeah I'll just finally check it tomorrow and proceed, my only slight hope is cars with AC do have 2 fans speeds where as non AC can sometimes not (which my car is non AC) so the temps would be right as I don't have that initial first fan to keep it below 98c like the limited editions. I will keep you posted. What's currently going in with yours, are you still driving it or found any more solutions?

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It’s not permanent just At the moment I’ve left the thermostat out until I have a solution rather than leave it over heat. The fan is running constant so it’s only running at under 40c to do no damage.
 

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It’s not permanent just At the moment I’ve left the thermostat out until I have a solution rather than leave it over heat. The fan is running constant so it’s only running at under 40c to do no damage.
Hey Podz,

So keeping you updated + did a video for you as it may help.

But checked my head today with tester and all checked out, I did two tests on my Corsa and then two on my grande Punto and then one on my friends sxi limited edition and the all checked out. So good news there.

Whilst I had my friend car I noted the things down to help with your as you both have same exact car.

1) When I got the keys and start car up for fret time it was at 73c on dash
2) I noticed that when it got past 98c the low speed fan did not kick in.
3) The temp work itself up to 106c degrees and the lower radiator hose was stone cold (22c - of my laser temp gun), it then got to 107 still cold, dropped to 106c and still cold (This is where video ends - link below)
4) I revved the car at 2000 rpm for about 5 seconds and it got to 107c again and the stat started to open up (reading about 44c on the pip with my laser gun).


I say this because this is how my car usually works it takes a couple tries to cycle to open up the stat, and then after that my car sits at 101 -104 degrees in normal driving conditions. But I do believe you need to let it cycle a couple of times. My temperatures were alot better today, I went back to my old yellow coolant cap just to check if the temps run better and they do, that moving back whilst the black looks better when screwing it on it on take a few turns and it is not fully tight dispite the notches on the cap and reservoir matching up, where as my old yellow goes really tight and takes more turns, so I believe the new cap make of been slightly increasing the boiling point, ( I'm gna do a video for people to see the difference weekend).

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Discussion Starter #28
Hey Podz,

So keeping you updated + did a video for you as it may help.

But checked my head today with tester and all checked out, I did two tests on my Corsa and then two on my grande Punto and then one on my friends sxi limited edition and the all checked out. So good news there.

Whilst I had my friend car I noted the things down to help with your as you both have same exact car.

1) When I got the keys and start car up for fret time it was at 73c on dash
2) I noticed that when it got past 98c the low speed fan did not kick in.
3) The temp work itself up to 106c degrees and the lower radiator hose was stone cold (22c - of my laser temp gun), it then got to 107 still cold, dropped to 106c and still cold (This is where video ends - link below)
4) I revved the car at 2000 rpm for about 5 seconds and it got to 107c again and the stat started to open up (reading about 44c on the pip with my laser gun).


I say this because this is how my car usually works it takes a couple tries to cycle to open up the stat, and then after that my car sits at 101 -104 degrees in normal driving conditions. But I do believe you need to let it cycle a couple of times. My temperatures were alot better today, I went back to my old yellow coolant cap just to check if the temps run better and they do, that moving back whilst the black looks better when screwing it on it on take a few turns and it is not fully tight dispite the notches on the cap and reservoir matching up, where as my old yellow goes really tight and takes more turns, so I believe the new cap make of been slightly increasing the boiling point, ( I'm gna do a video for people to see the difference weekend).

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thanks for that much appreciated I will give it a go got nothing to loose at the moment.. but as I Rev it it keeps going up and up so it gets scary past 110c did the fan then kick in at 109?
You think I should change the cap to black or keep it as it is?

what do you think the sloshing noise was?
 

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thanks for that much appreciated I will give it a go got nothing to loose at the moment.. but as I Rev it it keeps going up and up so it gets scary past 110c did the fan then kick in at 109?
You think I should change the cap to black or keep it as it is?

what do you think the sloshing noise was?
Yes the fan came on at 109c , I saw a wiring diagram and it.seems that cars with AC have too speeds and cars without have one. So I would test your car to see if that first fan comes on at approx 98c and give it a couple goes to do this , because as I said my friends today seemed to skip doing it this time (or I just didn't hear it). So see if your car fan speed comes on at 98c if not put blowers on to hot and max to cool it down and then do it again a few times. The car getting up 109 - 110 isn't that bad (mine gets here if just left in stands still traffic and stat isn't open - always does it a couple times when car is start from cold as it seems the stats needs to be submerged in the 107c coolant before it even starts to open, but of course a further 2 more degree and the fannkicksninnand cools it down, so around it goes again, then eventually it opens up, just.like in my friends video). Also you have to remember sensors will always have some leeway in the 'terms and conditions' of +2 or -2 degree of accuracy as all companies put this on components like this e.g my laser temp gun says accuracy within +4 or -4 degrees. I would honestly let your car just get up to temp and she sort how high it goes, it if is above 112, just turn your heaters on max to cool and then go again, or you could put them on the second heat setting to try make the car hold around 107c to try get the thermostat to open. I would give it 4 attempts, if after 4 attempts and the car just wants to go above 110 -112 then it maybe be more involved.


In regards to the cap, you can give it a try, it is a cheap and easy check, if it sorts the problem great, if not it only about £10 from vauxhall but go vauxhall just so u don't doubt if eBay has sold you a dodgy one. See how you get in with one if nothing you can always go back, my video weekend will show why I have gone back to yellow personally, but I would do it all the above with the yellow first and then try the black cap.

Not to sure about my sloshing, I am going to drain my coolant and top up with new stuff anyway in a few weeks, hopefully that remedies it.



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Yes the fan came on at 109c , I saw a wiring diagram and it.seems that cars with AC have too speeds and cars without have one. So I would test your car to see if that first fan comes on at approx 98c and give it a couple goes to do this , because as I said my friends today seemed to skip doing it this time (or I just didn't hear it). So see if your car fan speed comes on at 98c if not put blowers on to hot and max to cool it down and then do it again a few times. The car getting up 109 - 110 isn't that bad (mine gets here if just left in stands still traffic and stat isn't open - always does it a couple times when car is start from cold as it seems the stats needs to be submerged in the 107c coolant before it even starts to open, but of course a further 2 more degree and the fannkicksninnand cools it down, so around it goes again, then eventually it opens up, just.like in my friends video). Also you have to remember sensors will always have some leeway in the 'terms and conditions' of +2 or -2 degree of accuracy as all companies put this on components like this e.g my laser temp gun says accuracy within +4 or -4 degrees. I would honestly let your car just get up to temp and she sort how high it goes, it if is above 112, just turn your heaters on max to cool and then go again, or you could put them on the second heat setting to try make the car hold around 107c to try get the thermostat to open. I would give it 4 attempts, if after 4 attempts and the car just wants to go above 110 -112 then it maybe be more involved.


In regards to the cap, you can give it a try, it is a cheap and easy check, if it sorts the problem great, if not it only about £10 from vauxhall but go vauxhall just so u don't doubt if eBay has sold you a dodgy one. See how you get in with one if nothing you can always go back, my video weekend will show why I have gone back to yellow personally, but I would do it all the above with the yellow first and then try the black cap.

Not to sure about my sloshing, I am going to drain my coolant and top up with new stuff anyway in a few weeks, hopefully that remedies it.



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Okay pal thanks for your advice I’ll give it a go. Don’t want to go above 110c though, will try another cap just incase
 

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Okay pal thanks for your advice I’ll give it a go. Don’t want to go above 110c though, will try another cap just incase
Hey Podz,

So done that video in the old cap Vs the new cap. I can definitely say my car temps respond alot better with the old in st for the added the turn on the cap. You may want to try and see. As said before do a test with old and then new


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Okay pal thanks for your advice I’ll give it a go. Don’t want to go above 110c though, will try another cap just incase
Just don't Ng a check in mate to see if you have made any head way?

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