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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, I was driving to my mums the other day and for some strange reason my car stalked 3 times ! It then really struggled to climb a steep hill even in 1st gear. I didn't think much of it but when it was time to go home I was driving on a bypass and noticed a metallicy sounding tapping and knocking coming from my engine. I quickly took the 1st turning off and topped up my oil that I luckily had in my boot which I thought would resolve the problem. I got back on the bypass and the sound seemed to have gone for a bit but the car had no power! As I got closer to home the noise came back again! I parked it up hoping that it sort itself and would be ok when I started it up in the morning... I was wrong! Does anyone have a clue what this is before I scrap it ?? I have a 2011 Corsa D 1.3 cdti limited edition. I will try upload a vid now
 

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2012 sxi 1.2 5 door in black
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Sounds tappety as if it’s short of oil? Does it show on dipstick when cold? Also can’t hear turbo whistle and that should be able to be heard as revs go up, so lack of power could be turbo being 💩 💩’d. It’d almost be as easy to drop another engine in and even see if you can get the 1.7 to go in as a complete unit as that’s 130 bhp standard!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sounds tappety as if it’s short of oil? Does it show on dipstick when cold? Also can’t hear turbo whistle and that should be able to be heard as revs go up, so lack of power could be turbo being 💩 💩’d. It’d almost be as easy to drop another engine in and even see if you can get the 1.7 to go in as a complete unit as that’s 130 bhp standard!
Thanks for your response. I will double check the dipstick. I topped up but didn't recheck as it was in the dark. Sounds a lot of work even though dropping a 1.7 in there would be nice! What kind of costs are involved? Recently had a 2nd hand turbo installed as last one leaked and had a terrible turbo whine, one before I blew up on the same bypass 😂
 

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If you found a 1.7 as a complete car that’s had an argument with something solid/icy/rusty then change all mechanical bits over, the electrics etc in effect re shelling it then sell all the 1.3 cdti bits from yours, driveshafts, gearbox ecu t he en you’ll end up with a rapid limited edition and plenty of poke, plus 5 stud alloys even vxr ones! Win all ways!
 

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That tappety sound with revs sound like oil starvation. Maybe oil pump replacement?

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you found a 1.7 as a complete car that’s had an argument with something solid/icy/rusty then change all mechanical bits over, the electrics etc in effect re shelling it then sell all the 1.3 cdti bits from yours, driveshafts, gearbox ecu t he en you’ll end up with a rapid limited edition and plenty of poke, plus 5 stud alloys even vxr ones! Win all ways!
I better get on a look out for a 1.7 then and hope I find someone to fit it! How much would this cost me ? I wonder if the smoke is coming from the turbo 🤔
 

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That tappety sound with revs sound like oil starvation. Maybe oil pump replacement?

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Did you hear it on the video? If the oil pump has gone will it have damaged my engine ? Would it be worth just changing the engine?
 

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Did you hear it on the video? If the oil pump has gone will it have damaged my engine ? Would it be worth just changing the engine?
Well I didn't hear a specific oil pump failure sound, what I meant was when you rev the car it sounds very "rolling of the tongue" sound which sounds like the cams are are dry and causing that sound, meaning oil isn't getting to them. So why isn't oil get around the engine? You have to think failed oil pump, maybe simpler a block oil pick up. Well up front changing the engine the cost will be more, but once done you should be good to go. Changing an oil pump or cleaning an oil pick up would be substantially cheaper, but again it may not be that. If I were you I would try take it to an independent vauxhall's specialist just to see what they are thinking, as it maybe not as bad a fix as you think.

What is the service history on the car like? Oil changes etc?

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Hi All, I was driving to my mums the other day and for some strange reason my car stalked 3 times ! It then really struggled to climb a steep hill even in 1st gear. I didn't think much of it but when it was time to go home I was driving on a bypass and noticed a metallicy sounding tapping and knocking coming from my engine. I quickly took the 1st turning off and topped up my oil that I luckily had in my boot which I thought would resolve the problem. I got back on the bypass and the sound seemed to have gone for a bit but the car had no power! As I got closer to home the noise came back again! I parked it up hoping that it sort itself and would be ok when I started it up in the morning... I was wrong! Does anyone have a clue what this is before I scrap it ?? I have a 2011 Corsa D 1.3 cdti limited edition. I will try upload a vid now
Hey Pal how did you get on in the end mate with this?

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I have the same engine I think in my 2010 95hp. Mine's done 190k with probably a neglected second half, so is a bit noisy too. On idle, and from the front where your video started, it doesn't sound much better than yours, but when you moved round to the driver's door and even before you touched the throttle, there was obviously an 'orrible clatter that is very wrong, and I winced as you revved it.

I disagree about the lack of turbo whistle suggesting the turbo being u/s. My turbo doesn't whistle noticeably anyway, but I can hear a more refined turbo sound when I rev mine over 2000 rpm like you did.

You have no power probably as a result of the self-preservation "limp-mode" that the ECU orders when something potentially damaging is detected. Limp mode effectively deactivates the turbo I believe. I am surprised no-one has suggested finding out what trouble codes are being reported by the ECU.

My guess is that the timing chain has got stretched with wear and perhaps less than perfect oil changes, and finally jumped and/or broken a sprocket tooth or two. I haven't checked visually whether mine is properly tensioned or is loose, but from YouTube videos I have got the impression that it is quite straightforward to remove the engine top/camshaft cover, and thus easily expose and grab hold of the top of the chain which coincidentally is only a few cm away from the oil filler when the cover is still on. I'm no expert, but if the chain is indeed stretched, or the tensioner knackered allowing the chain to flap about then it could easily be hitting the timing cover causing that friction smoke you say you've seen when you remove the oil filler cap.

An experienced Fiat/GM Multijet diesel engineer should quickly be able to give you a better guess, especially if you can get hold of a diagnostic reader and give the engineer some trouble codes as a starter for ten.

Fitting a new timing chain kit (the kit costs around £100) is not for the faint-hearted DIYer, because it involves stripping off almost everything on the right side of the engine and removing the sump too. So the cheapest overall garage quote I've read for the whole job was £400 - and that's probably mates rates and a cheap aftermarket kit.

So if it is the chain, and you have just caught it in time before it bendssom valve stems or worse, it might be worth the expense merely to mitigate your losses.
But do get the trouble codes checked and diagnosed properly before laying out too much dosh.
 

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I have the same engine I think in my 2010 95hp. Mine's done 190k with probably a neglected second half, so is a bit noisy too. On idle, and from the front where your video started, it doesn't sound much better than yours, but when you moved round to the driver's door and even before you touched the throttle, there was obviously an 'orrible clatter that is very wrong, and I winced as you revved it.

I disagree about the lack of turbo whistle suggesting the turbo being u/s. My turbo doesn't whistle noticeably anyway, but I can hear a more refined turbo sound when I rev mine over 2000 rpm like you did.

You have no power probably as a result of the self-preservation "limp-mode" that the ECU orders when something potentially damaging is detected. Limp mode effectively deactivates the turbo I believe. I am surprised no-one has suggested finding out what trouble codes are being reported by the ECU.

My guess is that the timing chain has got stretched with wear and perhaps less than perfect oil changes, and finally jumped and/or broken a sprocket tooth or two. I haven't checked visually whether mine is properly tensioned or is loose, but from YouTube videos I have got the impression that it is quite straightforward to remove the engine top/camshaft cover, and thus easily expose and grab hold of the top of the chain which coincidentally is only a few cm away from the oil filler when the cover is still on. I'm no expert, but if the chain is indeed stretched, or the tensioner knackered allowing the chain to flap about then it could easily be hitting the timing cover causing that friction smoke you say you've seen when you remove the oil filler cap.

An experienced Fiat/GM Multijet diesel engineer should quickly be able to give you a better guess, especially if you can get hold of a diagnostic reader and give the engineer some trouble codes as a starter for ten.

Fitting a new timing chain kit (the kit costs around £100) is not for the faint-hearted DIYer, because it involves stripping off almost everything on the right side of the engine and removing the sump too. So the cheapest overall garage quote I've read for the whole job was £400 - and that's probably mates rates and a cheap aftermarket kit.

So if it is the chain, and you have just caught it in time before it bendssom valve stems or worse, it might be worth the expense merely to mitigate your losses.
But do get the trouble codes checked and diagnosed properly before laying out too much dosh.
He doesn't actually mention any DTC showing on the dash, otherwise I believe this would if been mentioned as it is the first point of call to diagnosing such an issue.

The.problem with this issue it could be a few things to cause this types of noises from pretty serious to Not too bad,oil pump, timing chain, big ends. But I agree get the valve cover off and see if there is any slack in the chain, it's.not 100% guarantee but it's something.

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