Ah OK, so if I understand it correctly you just have the basic Connects2 Quadlock > ISO lead with the built in aerial adaptor (is it the CT20VX03 one per chance)? If I remember rightly, with these I believe there are two wires - a red one and an orange one which need to be wired in to the car in order to make the head unit function correctly. Again, if I remember rightly the orange wire is illumination sense (unimportant really) and the red one is switched +12v (ignition).
It's this red one which you will need to link to a switched +12v feed in order to make the stereo turn on / off with the ignition. Basically, as you turn the ignition on, this red wire should get +12v telling the stereo to turn on. When you turn the ignition off, the wire should receive no voltage - turning the stereo off.
You have a couple of options open to you as to where you join this red wire in order to get a +12v switched ignition feed. Most people join theirs to the +12v for the electrical socket / cigarette lighter which will turn the stereo on with the ignition - but only when it is in position II (engine running). To many, this isn't a problem but if you're like me and you like to have the stereo on whilst waiting in the car with the engine off, or having it on whilst on a mammoth cleaning / polishing session (again without the engine running) then the cigarette lighter won't be any good for you. In these instances, you'll need to find a switched +12v ignition source which comes on when the key is turned to position I or one which becomes active when you insert the key into the barrel without turning it.
The only issue here is that there aren't many places behind the dash where you can tap a switched +12v feed which comes on when either the key is inserted, or only turned to ignition position I from - but I found the perfect place right behind the steering wheel for both!
In order to get at these points you will need to remove the steering cowling which is pretty easy and takes about 5 minutes. Firstly, centre the steering wheel and remove the circular cover from around the ignition barrel (it just unclips). Then turn the wheel 90 degrees to the right (so the top of the griffin badge on the wheel is facing the driver’s side window) and on the left of the wheel there should be a small circular screw cover visible facing you. Pop this cover off and remove the screw. Turn the wheel left through 180 degrees so the top of the griffin badge is now facing the passenger side window and to the right of the wheel should be another screw cover facing you. Again, pop this off and remove the screw. Finally, there is a Torx 20 screw on the bottom of the cowling (in the centre down a hole). Remove this then pop the top half of the cover off. The bottom half should then slide off (don't be afraid to give it a tug - the ignition barrel can get in the way a bit!)
Once the cowling is off, there should be a small plug on the ignition barrel with 5 wires on it. It is here where you will splice your red wire from the Connects2 adaptor to a switched +12v feed. Take your pick from
one of the wires below:
The "Position I" switched +12v feed is the first of the five wires in the loom (Brown/Yellow) – aka the "top" wire as you look at the loom as it's plugged in on the ignition barrel.
-OR-
The "Key-Sense" wire is the bottom wire on this connector (5th Wire down Brown/Green) - this gives switched +12v from the moment you insert the key into the ignition barrel (no turning required).
***Always check this is the case on your car with a Multimeter first BEFORE splicing your wiring - it MAY be different***
I personally link switched +12v feeds into the "Position I" wire.
Feed the red wire from the connects2 adaptor behind the dash and up behind the steering cowling. Use some tie-wraps to tie the wire alongside the cars existing wiring loom to avoid it snagging / getting caught around the steering column etc. Once the wire is in position, simply strip a bit of insulation from the Brown/Yellow wire, twist your red wire around it and fix in place with some solder. Ensure you insulate the join properly with some well-applied electrical insulation tape or a bit of heat-shrink tubing.
For a bit of added security, I also add an in-line fuse to the red wire. This just stops any potential spikes finding their way to your shiny new head unit. An inline fuse holder can be purchased from Halfords for a couple of quid – worth it for a bit of added “peace-of-mind”
Once complete, plug everything in and give it a quick test. If you chose to use the “Position I” wire, pop your key in and turn it one click. The stereo should fire up. Start the engine and check it also turns on here (This is the Accessory II position). Now turn the key back one click to “Position I”. The stereo should stay on. Finally, turn the key back another click and the power to the head unit should turn off. Remove the key and providing all is well reassemble the cowling.
If you chose to use the “Key-Sense” wire, pop your key into the ignition without turning it and the stereo should turn on. Turn the key one click and the stereo should stay on. Start the engine and ensure the stereo turns on. Now turn the key back a click to ignition “Position I” and ensure the stereo remains on and back again – it should still stay on. Finally, remove the key and the stereo should turn off. If all is well reassemble the cowling.
If you decide to purchase a CAN BUS adaptor for your steering controls in the future, the Connects2 version will only provide power to the head unit when the ignition is in “position II” (engine running). To get around this just link the adaptor “ignition” wire (switched +12v) to your wire behind the ignition. This will enable you to use the stereo with the engine off as above.
The InCarTec CAN BUS adaptor I use and linked you to earlier on requires no cutting / soldering and provides a switched +12v feed from the moment you insert your key into the ignition barrel (rather like the standard head unit). So if you do go with this adaptor at some point in the future then you can remove the wire we described installing above as you won’t need it. All you need to do with the ICT adaptor is plug it into the cars Quadlock plug, plug in the stereo and away you go! This adaptor, like the Connects2 one also has the “Mute” and “Speed-sense” wires etc making it perfect for Satellite Navigation and Multimedia head units. MFD Display output is also supported by the ICT adaptor providing your head unit supports external displays. Personally, I find the steering controls to be much more reliable with this adaptor and it’s cheaper than the Connects2 one by quite a margin – I cannot recommend it highly enough!
Sorry for the essay – ha ha – but as you can see there are a fair few choices for you to go at! But, if you have any questions etc or you’re unsure of anything above then just pop a question below.
Hope this helps a few people out,
Andy
